Nate again. One day later and mentally stronger, today was a confident day. Here's a quick recap of Day 1.
Swell built to 8-10’ today and the small wedges from yesterday were now dumping close out walls. I got in a short afternoon session the day before and my knee didn’t feel tired, it felt strong. I think that session was key to making today’s water time the success it was.
Yesterday’s experience made me hone in on what I wanted and yesterday’s short afternoon session gave me confidence. The incoming swell was going to force me to be picky with my wave selection.
My goal was to break it back down to the beginning. I visualized smoothly catching the wave and setting a nice line. I wanted to aim low on the wave but also knew I wanted to keep ahead of the breaking section as it was heavy. I was resolved to try coming up to the top and feel out a reentry, to see where it’d take me.
A positive attitude combined with a few specific goals to accomplish made all the difference. I felt good. I felt successful. I accomplished what I set out to do.
I by no means killed it, but filmed a few clips to share below. Grabbing the video was a helpful part of the process.
Got in a couple light turns, knew I couldn’t drive through another so I bailed. Came to the lip on one and saw a barrel section on my last wave, consciously decided nope, not today. It felt good. I understand better the road ahead and am ready to ease into it, but in a systematic and measured way. I think I'm accepting the reality of what this injury means and need only look forward from here.