Looked at the lineup before getting wet, at that set wave I shied away from two days ago and geared up, today’s the day. I paddled out and setup, watching the first set go by, dialing in my positioning and honing my nerves, building up my confidence and believing in my ability. Paddled to the peak and dropped in the next set wave, it’s all looking forward here on out.
These past three days pushed me through three distinct phases, all mental. The first was realizing that I needed to focus my mind and be strong.
The second was about having confidence and committing.
The third phase is about accepting the reality of moving forward with an injury. I can’t dwell on what could’ve been or how I would surf pre-injury. I see that now. Determined to return stronger and better I’ll need to remain focused, consistent and careful. I’ll have to adapt and prepare differently, my movements will be more conscious.
Now I’m resolved to take on the challenge and motivated to carry this momentum throughout all aspects of life.
Below is a short clip of my last wave this morning, moving forward.